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Ferrules, caps, projecting mounts, and tuning slides serve both to protect and adorn the bagpipe. A
wide range of materials are used, however many consider “silver and ivory” to be the classic look of
the bagpipe.
Nickel-silver and German silver have no silver content whatsoever. These terms are
used to describe nickel-based alloys that are sometimes used.
Sterling Silver is the common name
for silver that has been tested by an assay office and meets the minimum standard of 92.5 percent purity.
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A Hallmark on silver is your guarantee that the item has been tested at an official assay office and
that the silver meets the legal standards for purity. In 1497 a law was enacted that required the testing
and hallmarking items of gold and silver. Testing was conducted at the Guild Office of Goldsmiths’ Hall,
hence the term Hallmark.
Hallmarks are a series of symbols struck into the item leaving an impression
upon the item. They consist of a maker’s mark, a standard mark which denotes the jurisdiction and purity
of the item, an Assay Office mark, and a date mark. Go here for the most comprehensive site on the
Internet covering hallmarks.
Some bagpipe makers used to maintain a silversmith on staff. Silver
arrived as a sheet or as silver wire, which was cut, folded and soldered into the desired shape. The
piece was then decorated. Usually the design was hand-chased. This was done by tapping a small pointed
tool across the surface of the silver, pushing aside material and leaving a beautiful soft design behind.
Engraving involves the removal of material, leaving behind a design with sharper edges. Silver may also
be cast and formed into the various pieces to be fitted onto the bagpipe.
The various metal pieces
are sometimes threaded and screwed into place, or pressure fitted in place, or pinned into place using
tiny nails.
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Ivory
Ivory is perhaps the crowning glory of classic bagpipes. The blend of ivory, sterling
silver, and African Blackwood can be stunning. Those done with skill and grace have endured well over
one hundred years.
Today the transport and sale of ivory is heavily regulated. Elephants and
other animals that produce ivory are protected. Herds are managed and ivory is harvested from living
animals. Hopefully this will ensure that future generations will be able to enjoy these endangered animals
as well as one of life's most beautiful natural treasures.
Ivory is generally extremely durable,
however it is a natural material, and as such it is subject to damage due to neglect, abuse, and the
elements. There are some basic care techniques that will make a piece of ivory last for generations.
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The first thing to keep in mind is that ivory of any kind is heat sensitive. If a piece of ivory
becomes both hot and dry, it can develop cracks over time. In most climates this is not a problem, but
in extreme heat and dryness, precautions should be taken to keep the ivory hydrated.
Extremes
of temperature to the cold end of the thermometer should also be avoided. If a piece of ivory has been
in extreme cold, it should be warmed gradually rather than quickly. If it has been stored in a closed
carton, open the carton but leave the ivory in its wrappings for 48 hours or so to allow it to gradually
adjust to the new temperature.
If a piece of ivory begins to crack or looks questionable, a
very light oil can be used to hydrate it directly. The safest way to apply oil would be to get a small
amount on your hands, then handle the piece of ivory. Again, we recommend using the Bore Doctor's bore
oil, as it is made of plant oils, specially formulated with natural preservatives, stabilizers, and anit-oxidants.
The second thing to keep in mind is that ivory is permeable. When storing or shipping a piece
of ivory, be sure to wrap the piece in white paper or clear plastic, but NOT in any paper or material
where inks or dyes are present. Designs or colors can transfer into the ivory itself over time, especially
if the material becomes slightly damp.
To protect and care for ivory, you should rub a small amount
of mineral oil into the ivory once or twice each year. This helps to replace oils lost as the ivory ages.
In addition, after the mineral oil is fully absorbed into the ivory, apply a thin coat of regular furniture
spray wax just to help slow down extremes in humidity and water loss/gain in the material.
Ivory
(as distinguished from bone, antler or horn) includes the tusks and the unusually large or projecting
teeth of animals such as elephant, walrus and several species of whale. It consists of dentine, made
up of components which are both organic (to provide the capacity for growth and repair) and inorganic
(to provide rigidity and strength). Identification of the type of ivory is based on the composition
of the dentine and its specific growth structure.
Ivory is very reactive to its environment.
It bleaches when exposed to light but the most severe changes are linked to changes in relative humidity
and temperature. Low relative humidity causes desiccation, shrinkage and cracking, while high relative
humidity can cause warping and swelling. Heat fluctuations induce similar expansion and contraction. Some
darkening or "patina" is the result of the natural aging process of ivory's organic constituents. Because
it is porous, ivory is also susceptible to staining. It darkens in contact with the skin or oils and
can be stained by corroding metals or other dyed materials.
Bagpipes makers not only used elephant
ivory, but they also used vegatable ivory, bones, teeth, and horns or antlers of marine and land mammals.
Woods, plastics and metals are also used.
In spite of its obvious frailties, nothing quite matches
ivory for its warm, rich look. The sale and transport of ivory is controlled around the world. You should
investigate the laws of any jurisdiction that you will be passing through prior to taking your ivory
mounted bagpipes with you.
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